Tag Archives: France
In many windows, both in France and Spain, you’ll see the insides lined with lace curtains. Many are floral patterns, or highly repetitive designs, but some have complete scenes with people and places. Here are two of my favorites from my walks around little towns.
A window in Apt
Hot air ballons over town
A window in Bonnieux
The old, old church is a hearty eighty-six steps up a steep hill from the village. Even with our daily five miles, I started to feel winded. This is no gentle slope. Did there used to be more dwellings that high up in Bonnieux or was that all part of it? In the 12th century was this just what you did every Sunday? Or several times a week for that matter? And just as Gothic cathedrals’ heights help bring their congregations closer to heaven with their arches and steeples, are these steps supposed to signify a journey towards communion with God?
Of course in my state of rapture, in reaching the top, in Provençal July heat, and in Christian ruins, I didn’t bother to take any pictures of the church itself. There’s hardly enough room at the top of the hill to get far enough away from the wall of the church to capture it all in one shot anyway, and the church itself was locked (though it isn’t used as a church, classical music performances are held there occasionally).
There’s a little bench up there at the top under that big cypress tree that’s obscured by the tree’s shadows. It’s so quiet up there, and windy too. In a way it’s soothing to sit on that bench, and in a way it’s very eerie, being so high up, and so dwarfed by everything around you–the church, the trees, the vista, and time itself.
Sitting in the shade and peering through the big dark cypress branches makes you understand Cezanne and the awe he obviously felt a bit better (think Forest 1894 and Landscape Near Aix, the Plain of the Arc River). I have such a different perspective on Cezanne than I used to. In college I fought one of my art history professors constantly about him–I just never felt the still lives and thought he was over-credited for his perspective. Now looking at his landscapes that once seemed so benign to me, I see much more of the turbulence that I feel is the essence of Provence–it isn’t that calm lavender scented-rosé filled country the Brits, or whoever else might think it is–it’s thick and heavy. Life is really felt here. As the French say, it’s sauvage–wild.
I know it’s a lot on Bonnieux, but I really think Bonnieux is worth it.
Le Fournil is one of the restaurants featured in Gilles Pudlowski’s guide to Provence and the Cote d’Azur. This place is an absolute pleasure. It fits in perfectly with the relaxed atmosphere and beauty of Bonnieux. The food is refined yet unpretentious. The service is friendly and on the lively side, which gives the place a bit of a younger vibe–totally welcome after a week at Mas de Guille (“Relais du Silence”) where we were the youngest people by twenty years. And judging by the stares I got when I was taking pictures, this place is equally appreciated by tourist and locals alike, which lends credence to the chef’s work.
Le Fournil at 7:30pm
We’re early eaters at home, it’s no secret. But I swear we were eating at 9 and later in Guethary! But during that first week away in Provence, we were still adjusting. Add to that the heat and our minimum of five miles of walking per day (assessed by pedometer no less) and we ended up really needing that first reservation of the night. Plus it made for good pictures right?
Le Fournil’s menu
Fish paté amuse bouche
I’m a little bit of a wuss when it comes to something like fish paté (and I. even more so) but this was absolutely delectable. I never expected such a texture to work–but Le Fournil made it so.
Petits farcis provençaux servis tíèdes
I have no translation for “petits…” but based on the little I know about Provençal cuisine, stuffed crudité appears to be somewhat of a tradition. We had several incarnations of this dish at different restaurants and this was indubitably the best. The stuffing is bread crumbs, herbs, and other fabulous Provencal things. Sorry I can’t be more specific, but aren’t the colors great?
Bouquet de haricots vert et cocos frais, ris d’agneau poêlés vinaigrette d’herbes
If only this could be recreated. I’m not sure what the cut of lamb was, but it was so tender. Perfect with vegetables and some aged balsalmico.
Contrefilet de beouf poêlé, chutney de cerises, blettes au jus
The pièce de résistance: contrefilet. Although my favorite steak of the trip was at Le Madrid (Cote de Beouf with Bearnaise) due to its total simplicity and melt-in-your-mouth qualities, this contrefilet is a very, very close second. The cherry confit had the perfect balance of sweet and tart to the meat. Every bite was a pleasure.
As we left everyone was still enjoying.
There are two very beautiful and grand hotels in Bonnieux that appear to have been closed and then abandoned.
One is on the main road across from the wall in the photographs in the previous post.
peering inside the window from the courtyard
bas relief bust in the courtyard
There’s another old empty hotel on the steep walk up to the 12th century church at the top of town.
Hotel Deville’s (de Ville’s?) overgrown garden
A big part of my trip to Provence was a pilgrimage to Lourmarin, the town where my grandmother lived the last quarter of her life. Lourmarin has changed significantly in the past 20 years though (my grandmother died in 90’s). What was once nothing more than a small town surrounded by old farm houses is now a chic getaway, easily accessible from Paris by the TGV to Aix–and even closer than Peter Mayle’s famous Menerbes (although Mayle has purportedly relocated to Lourmarin). Boutiques and restaurants abound where there used to be nothing. As I told my mother this morning, Lourmarin in July isn’t the most relaxing place to sit back and relish an afternoon at a cafe–there are just too many people. And the commerce is practically overstimulating. Next time I go it’ll be in spring or fall.
But a twenty minute drive west and north along a beautiful narrow uphill road lies Bonnieux, which I considered our home away from home for our time in Provence.
This picture was taken at the end of the first night we spent in Bonnieux. Those tiny yellow lights in the distance (middle horizon) are the town of Lacoste. It looks much closer when you’re there.
Here you can see Bonnieux’s 19th century church below us in the centre ville.
If Bonnieux was our home away from home, Les Terrasses was our living room. Really lovely, kind people and a terrace (not pictured) on the opposite side of the street overlooking the village. A great, very casual place for coffee, dessert, an afternoon snack, or even a complete dinner.
The rooftops of Bonnieux, seen from Les Terrasses
When you enter Bonnieux from the direction of Lourmarin, you enter the village at its highest point (the village itself runs along the side of a rather steep hill). The main road leads you into the centre ville in a zig zag fashion.
The old, old wall alongside the road down into town
Looking up from the road to the awning of Les Terrasses
Narrow little street
Early summer evening in Bonneiux
More early summer evening
Bonnieux is pretty sleepy, and everyone seems to like it that way. There are a handful of restaurants, a gallery, a tabac, and an old antique store. It’s certainly nowhere to go if you’re looking for action. The antique store was full of very old treasures, the store itself little more than a musty stone cave. It’s dark and cool in there, and the owners sit outside on chairs that are for sale. My husband found a dead scorpion under an old kitchen weight. I think it was the first time I’d ever seen one up close. I told the owner and he came over, just in time for us to figure out the scorpion wasn’t dead after all. We all had a good scream about that.
I love looking at florists in different places. Maison Roumagnac is a beautiful shop in Biarritz that does expert design and carries a variety of unusual cuttings in addition to the usual roses, hydrangeas, and freesias.
The storefront on Avenue Victor Hugo
Moby Dick Asclepias (Gomphocarpus fruticosus), and hanging amaranth
detail of Gomphocarpus fruticosus
Beautiful (fully evolved) pincushion protea